HAS a former molecular biologist used his special knowledge to solve the riddle of producing what is, in effect, a quality Tuscan wine, from a Californian vineyard?

Ten years ago, regional winemakers failed to produce a popular local version of Tuscan Sangiovese, partly because they picked the grapes too early, according to Jeff Brinkman, current winemaker at Atlas Peaks vineyard, Napa Valley. His vineyard says it is now selling all the wine it can produce from vines imported from Tuscany, grown on steep slopes chosen for their ...

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