INDONESIAN SMOKERS

BY MATTHEW BRACETHE day I met Kadek he was sitting on the well-worn black saddle of his 50cc Yamaha, shades perched on his nose and obligatory Djarum smouldering on his bottom lip. "Transport?" he asked; the signature call of Kuta Boys who earn pin money from scooting tourists, frugal businessmen and journalists through the traffic-clogged streets of this fabled Bali beach resort.They have perfected the art invented by wizened old rickshaw drivers in Shanghai, and copied by Parisian taxi drivers, of smoking while driving and talking, and sometimes eating and ...


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